48 Hours In Bordeaux
Updated: Jun 13, 2020
Let's jet off to South-West France, or as the locals call it, the Sud-Ouest. About a 2 hour train ride, or 1 hour flight from Paris, the UNESCO World Heritage city of Bordeaux is just inland from the Atlantic Sea. Most people know the region for its world renowned wine-scene, and while this is true, it also has a booming cafe and gastronomic scene as well.
Back in the day (I'm talking 300 BC), Bordeaux was actually called 'Burdigala', and had a relatively rough time as a city up until the 18th century. This is when money started to pour in to the city and it rose once more. To this day, there are over 5,000 buildings dated between the 16th and 18th centuries still in use. The main side of the river is what the Bordelaise people call 'Rive Droite', which means the right side of the river. The left side ("Rive Gauche") is an up and coming area, but is easily accessible with tram A. It has an industrial/warehouse, contemporary type feel and is home to some bars, restaurants and is a more residential area than the right side.
When you visit through Bordeaux, you will likely be in the midst of your European or French adventure if you're from overseas. Or, if you are from around Europe, perhaps you only have a weekend to explore this amazing city, so I have put together a 48 hours in Bordeaux guide so you can make the most out of your trip, and hopefully enjoy it so much you plan to return!
DAY 1
Morning - Indulge
Breakfast at Le Boulanger de l’Hotêl de Ville, where you can enjoy traditional French pastries + a nice coffee for around 3 euros per person. I would personally recommend one of your pastries to be a Canelé, a traditional Bordelaise sweet (as seen in the second picture below), and choice of coffee is a Noisette, which is an espresso with a hint of hazelnut.
Even if breakfast is included in your hotel, I would suggest stopping by this wonderfully authentic Boulanger at some point during your time in Bordeaux.
Mid Morning - Sightseeing + A Bit Of Exercise
If you are up for it, head to Place Pey Berland - Pey Berland Tower, just to the left of the main square behind the Boulanger, about 400 metres by foot. Why do I say if you're up for it? Well, it has lots of stairs and no elevator, so once you embark on your journey to the top, there is no going back. On the plus side, after 1, 2 or 3 pastries for breakfast, it might be a good chance to work it off!
Afterwards, right next door to Pey Berland Tower is Cathédrale Saint André de Bordeaux, the largest cathedral in the city. You'll see it as soon as you hit the main square. The interior boasts an eclectic mix between traditional French and Roman design (as the Romans invaded in the early stages of Bordeaux's existence). It is truly an amazing spectacle and one not to be missed.
Lunch Western Cuisine With French Flare
Head to 'Personne n’est Parfait' for a light lunch. Here, you will find the best avocado toast and dessert crumble in town (vegan friendly and many other vegan friendly meals). Bordeaux has a very large Japanese population so if that is your kind of cuisine, or you are just in the mood for some traditional Washoku, there are no shortage of eateries.
Afternoon - History Lessons Continued
The Museum of Aquitaine (recently renovated and has a new area now), exhibits the checkered past of the region and is a great place for history buffs. Once you have been overloaded with information, take an evening stroll down Rue Sainte Catherine (the main shopping strip) until Place Victoire. Here, you can stop and have a beer in one of the many bars around the square. There are also many English pubs as well.
Dinner - Keep The Traditions Alive
If you are feeling traditional French cuisine - 'Le 4 Murs' is the perfect choice. Averaging around 40 euros per person, it is pricier than some restaurants, however you receive a Michelin Star meal in a casual setting.
If you prefer a Raclette-style meal - 'La Meule du Berger', is a great place to start. Averaging a little less than 'Le 4 Murs', it is a completely different cuisine.
My personal recommendation is 'Totto Italian Trattoria' in Place du Parliament. In my opinion, best pizza and pasta in Bordeaux at a very affordable price. About 12-14 euros for a huge pizza and pasta is of similar pricing. Seeing as you are in the tourist centre, this is some of the best value for money food you'll find.
Post Dinner - Digest With More Wine
You are in Bordeaux, so you can’t miss the famous Bar à Vins (Bar of Wine). It is the lifeblood of the city, and houses some of the best wines from in and around Bordeaux just next to the Grand Theatre. 'Le Metropolitan' is a great choice close to the Quais, or 'Les Trois Pinardiers', close to Place Gambetta.
If wine isn't your thing, perhaps you can catch a show at the Grand Theatre de Bordeaux after dinner. It is on the opposite end of Rue St Catherine to Place Victoire. Dating back to 1780, the Theatre still hosts one show per night and dare I say it, looks even better from the inside than it does on the out!
DAY 2
Breakfast/Brunch - Treat Yourself
Start your day in the Saint Michel neighborhood, and treat yourself to the great value food at 'Excuse My French Cafe'. With some of the most sizeable portions in the city, at a very competitive price, you cannot look past this little, quirky cafe. If you aren't a morning person, not to worry, as Bordeaux's brunch scene is popping and this cafe, from my personal experience at least, offers some of the best value breakfast/brunch in the city.
Post Breakfast - Walk It Off
After breakfast, take a stroll and discover Bordeaux’s oldest church: Basilique de Saint Michel. From there, you can walk by the Quai, and you’ll come across the famous bridge called 'Ponte Pierre'. After the bridge you'll see 'Porte Cailhau' on your left hand side. This gate dates back to 1495 and was once the main gateway to the city.
Keep walking along the river, about 500 metres, and then you will see arguably the most notable attraction in Bordeaux, 'Place de la Bourse' and the 'Mirroir d'Eau'. These two attractions compliment each other very well like an apple in a pie, and if it's not too windy, you can see a perfect reflection of the 'Place de la Bourse' in the Mirroir.
After you have brought out your inner photographer, take the tram from Quinconces (about a 5 minute walk from the Mirroir), and take the B line tram to the 'Cite du Vin', or, the City of Wine.
Lunch - A Taste Of Gourmet French Cuisine
Before you take a wander through the Cité du Vin, you can have a bite to eat, although it is pricy. Another option is the Halles de Bacalan, a food market where you can sit on shared tables and choose one of the many cuisine options available. If none of these options fancy you, there are many restaurants facing the Quai in between Place de la Bourse and the Wine Museum.
Afternoon - Experience The Lifeblood Of Bordeaux
Spend the afternoon at Cité du Vin. Depending on the month you visit (from April to September) there is also a wine cruise available. If not, only the museum is already really interesting and you even receive a complimentary wine tasting included in the price of your ticket. Admission starts at 20 euros for adults and 9 euros for children, however more information can be seen on their website.
Dinner - The Choice Is Yours
If you didn't already spend lunch at the Halles de Bacalan next to the Cite du Vin, you can conveniently pop over the road and grab a quick, yet gourmet meal, before heading back in to town. Alternatively, you can take the B line tram back in to the centre, hopping off at either Quinconces, Grand Theatre, Gambetta-madd, or Hotel de Ville, and walking through the city, exploring the many ally ways that make up Bordeaux.
Fun fact, did you know that Bordeaux is famous for having no straight ally ways in its centre? Each ally is curved, even if ever so slightly. Take a look for yourself!
Day 3 - Saint-Emilion (if you have a 3rd day)
I know this is a 48 hours guide, but one can simply not dismiss Saint-Emilion out of the to-do list while in South-West France.
Once you have finished exploring as much of Bordeaux as possible, head to Gare St. Jean train station and jump on a train to Saint-Emilion. To get to St. Jean, you'll either need to take a taxi or ride share, hop on the number 1 bus, or take the C line tram, the latter of which (bus and tram), will cost 1.70 euros one-way (3 euros if you buy the round trip).
Saint-Emilion is a historic UNESCO world heritage centre, about an hour direct train ride away from Bordeaux and makes for a perfect day trip. The train departs Bordeaux every 40 minutes or so and tickets can be purchased at the train station for around 7 euros. Leaving Bordeaux at about 9:30am - 10am is perfect, as it gives you a bit of time to sightsee before sitting down to a lunch with a view, regardless of where you find yourself. Be aware, however, that the town itself is actually a 15-20 minute walk from where the train will drop you off, so it is a bit of a trek, and the slight incline doesn't help. There are tuk tuk's driving around, which service the route between the town and train station, costs about 5 euros, can accommodate 4 people, and take a mere 2 minutes to arrive in town, so if you cannot walk that far, or simply don't want to (but you should if you can), you can take advantage of them.
After you have arrived, take a walk to one of the many patisseries and try a Saint-Emilion macaron to cap-off a perfect lunch. You may choose to also visit one of the many surrounding Chateau's, as you are in one of the many hearts which represents the South-West in the world of wine. In fact, there are over 200 wineries in and around Saint-Emilion alone!
As you walk around the town, make sure you keep aware of where you are stepping foot, as it is mostly cobble stones, making the surface quite uneven. There are also more than a few steep climbs, so if it has been raining recently, it probably isn't a wise idea to venture up them, because the stones will be very slippery. After you've visited the Monolithic Church of Saint-Emilion, its bell tower, La Tour de Roy, and Chapelle de la Trinite de Saint-Emilion, it will be time to head back to the train station and back in to Bordeaux.
Accommodation
Mercure Hotel Bordeaux Centre Ville
I stayed here on my trip to Bordeaux, and I can easily say that it serves as a perfect base for exploring the city. Although not smack-bang in the middle of the centre, it is a short walk to the sites. This 10 minute walk will allow you to walk off the delicious pastries, wine and produce eaten throughout the day. Breakfast was very sufficient and reception staff were an amazing help. Overall, quite a nice hotel with ample surroundings, shops, restaurants, bistro's and patisseries. Would recommend if you are willing to walk a little bit to save some money. If you are unable to walk so far, the tram A line is about 200 metres from the hotel, stopping at Meriadeck. In 2 stops you will be in the centre, which takes around 5 minutes.
Airbnb
The Airbnb scene is pretty big in Bordeaux and can be cheaper than a hotel, especially if you are staying longer than a couple of days. However, for short stays like 2 or 3 days, I would bypass the Airbnb option and get a hotel room for a few nights, and this is for a few reasons. Firstly you don't have the hassle of stressing if someone will be there waiting, or if your booking will be cancelled last minute, rather you can rest assured that a comfy hotel room will be waiting for you. Secondly, it is the same price as a hotel for shorter stays so you may as well book a room that you know will be comfortable and will more than likely be reliable in more ways than one.
Transport
Bordeaux is serviced by a great public transport system. There are trams and busses which run quite regularly and are very reliable.
The tram system consist of 3 tram lines, and soon to be 4; tram A, B and C, and soon, yep you guessed, D. Unlike some cities, the tram lines do not run in a circle, so if you manage to take the wrong one, make sure to hop off at the next stop and regather your bearings.
Another way of transport is to grab a 24 or 48 hour hop-on/hop-off open top bus pass from the tourist office just between the Grand Theatre and Quinconces. Yes, this is the touristy thing to do, but it saves you having to walk around to the points of interest, if for some reason you are unable to do so. Simply plug your earphones in, enjoy the personal history lesson, and soak up the sun on the top deck!
Final Thoughts
Bordeaux is a wonderful city and has so much to explore. Packing it all in within 2-3 days is simply impossible, but by following this guide, you can get a taste of what the city has to offer. Keep in mind, too, that it is still an up and coming city, and in fact, is one of the fastest growing cities in France. Spending 48 - 72 hours in Bordeaux will leave you wanting more. Guaranteed.
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